Enchanting Landscapes in Southern Germany
Autumn is always a highlight for me when it comes to photography and hiking. This year’s destination was southern Germany. I’ll be writing more about the various locations in the coming time. This time it’s about our visit to Königssee and subsequently Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden and the Zauberwald. A truly wonderful area!
Deep in the south of Germany, on the edge of Berchtesgaden National Park, lies one of the most picturesque areas of the Alps. Here you’ll find the crystal-clear Königssee, the charming mountain village of Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden and the fairytale Zauberwald (Magic Forest). In autumn this area shows itself at its finest – with golden deciduous trees, mist above the water and the silence of the mountains. A perfect destination for those who love peace, nature and tranquility.
About Königssee
Königssee (literally: King’s Lake) is one of the most beautiful and cleanest lakes in Germany. The lake lies entirely within Berchtesgaden National Park and is surrounded by steep mountain walls reaching up to 2,700 metres in height, including the imposing Watzmann. With a maximum depth of 190 metres, it is the deepest lake in Germany.
| Length | 7.7 km |
| Width | 1.7 km (widest point) |
| Depth | 190 metres (deepest point) |
| Location | Berchtesgaden National Park, Bavaria |
| Elevation | 603 metres above sea level |
The water is so clear that it seems to reflect the sky and mountains. To preserve this purity, only electric boats, rowing boats and pedal boats have been permitted since 1909. Swimming is allowed in the lake – but be warned: the water is ice cold!
The Magic of Königssee
In autumn it’s relatively quiet – most tourists have left and nature dominates. But make no mistake, it can still be busy. So come early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Advance booking isn’t necessary in low season, but is recommended in high season.
Tip: Check the timetable beforehand. When we were there the winter service had just started, which means the boat trip doesn’t go beyond St. Bartholomä. If you want to visit Obersee, it’s disappointing to find out after you’ve bought your boat ticket.
We visited the lake in October. From the pier at Schönau am Königssee the boat departs for the famous church of St. Bartholomä. The journey across the still water is breathtaking – the mountains reflect beautifully in the wonderful lake. Halfway through, a crew member plays a trumpet and the sound echoes off the rock walls – it’s an experience in itself.
Hiking Around Königssee
Once arrived at St. Bartholomä, the first thing you do is visit the church. It was already quite busy here too. We therefore quickly chose to go for a hike. As mentioned, our boat trip didn’t go any further, so the walk to Obersee wasn’t possible.
Route 1: Hike to Obersee (summer)
When the boats sail to Salet (usually late April to mid-October), you can take the short walk from there to Obersee – one of the most beautiful spots in the region. Those who want to go further can continue to the Röthbachfall, at 470 metres Germany’s highest waterfall.
| Distance | 4,6 km |
| Duration | 1,5 – 2,0 hours |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Height difference | 200 m |
| Start | Salet (boat terminus) |
Route 2: Lakeside Walk at St. Bartholomä
Because the boat didn’t go any further, we chose a walk along the lake towards the Eiskapelle (Ice Chapel) and back to the pier. It wasn’t crowded and you can enjoy the beautiful nature at your leisure with views of the Watzmann.
| Distance | 6 km (loop) |
| Duration | 1.5-2 hours |
| Difficulty | Easy to moderate |
| Elevation gain | ~150 metres |
| Highlights | Watzmann views, Eisbach, St. Johann und Paul chapel |
Hiking tip: The Eiskapelle (Ice Chapel) is a glacier cave at the foot of the Watzmann East Face. Note: the cave can collapse and is dangerous to enter! From St. Bartholomä it’s about 1 hour and 15 minutes walking (one way).
The return boat journey gives you another opportunity to capture beautiful images with your camera.
Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden – the Postcard Village
Our second destination that day was Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden and subsequently the Zauberwald. Ramsau is perhaps one of the most photographed villages in Germany. The white church (St. Sebastian, built in 1512) with its spire and the Ramsauer Ache river in the foreground together form a classic Alpine image. Especially in autumn, when the trees along the water turn gold and orange, it’s enchantingly beautiful here.
Ramsau has remained small and authentic. You hear the flowing water, the bells of grazing cows and the soft rustle of wind through the trees. From here starts the walk through the Zauberwald – literally the ‘Magic Forest’ – a name that is more than justified.
Photography tip: The best photo of Ramsau church is taken from the bridge over the Ramsauer Ache. Come early in the morning for the most beautiful light and fewest crowds. The Watzmann in the background completes the composition.
The Enchanting Zauberwald and Hintersee
The Zauberwald (Magic Forest) is one of the most beautiful walks in the region and was named one of the most beautiful geotopes in Bavaria. Thousands of years ago, about 15 million cubic metres of rock crashed down from the Schärtenspitze and Steinberg. The boulders piled on top of each other and dammed up streams – this is how this enchanting landscape and Hintersee lake were created.
The path follows the Ramsauer Ache river, which flows between large moss-covered stones. Everywhere you hear the rushing of water, the crackling of leaves and the soft light falling through the canopy. The walk ends at the idyllic Hintersee – a small mountain lake with crystal-clear water in which the surrounding mountains are reflected.
Route 3: Ramsau – Zauberwald – Hintersee
The route is simple and easily walkable. Along the way you can stop at various places to photograph or simply enjoy the peace. Especially in autumn, when the light is low and the leaves are changing colour, it’s one of the most beautiful places you can find in Germany.
| Distance | 11 km (circular walk) |
| Duration | 3.5-4.5 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Elevation gain | ~490 metres |
| Highlights | Zauberwald, Hintersee, St. Sebastian church |
Hiking tip: Walk the route clockwise so you start with the climb and finish at Hintersee. Note: the Zauberwald is not suitable for pushchairs, but the path around Hintersee (2.8 km) is.
Short Walk: Hintersee Loop
Those with less time can also just walk a loop around Hintersee:
| Distance | 2.8 km |
| Duration | 1-1.5 hours |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Suitable for | Pushchairs, all ages |
Accommodation and Dining
The region around Berchtesgaden offers numerous atmospheric guesthouses and inns. We stayed in a small family hotel in Ramsau, with views over the valley. From here you’re within ten minutes of Königssee and can walk straight into the Zauberwald. In the evening you can visit one of the local restaurants for a hearty Bavarian meal – Kaiserschmarrn, dumplings or a steaming soup with mountain views.
At St. Bartholomä you’ll find the historic Gasthaus St. Bartholomä, the former hunting lodge of the Bavarian kings. Try the fresh fish from the lake here – a specialty of the region.
Best Time to Visit
Autumn is without doubt the most beautiful time to visit this part of the Alps. Between late September and early November the forests turn gold, red and brown. The mornings are often misty, the days mild and the light is warm and diffuse – ideal for photography.
| Spring (Apr-May) | Melting snow, waterfalls at their most powerful. Salet accessible again from late April. |
| Summer (Jun-Aug) | All destinations open, warm weather. Can be very busy, arrive early! |
| Autumn (Sep-Oct) | Golden colours, first snow on peaks, magical light. Our favourite! |
| Winter (Nov-Mar) | Boats only go to St. Bartholomä. Fewer crowds, winter atmosphere. |
In the early morning you can often see beautiful mist hanging over the water at Königssee, while the afternoon is perfect for a walk through the Zauberwald. Bear in mind that the boat to Salet (for Obersee) usually only operates from late April to mid-October.
Photography tip: The most beautiful moments are early in the morning when mist still hangs over the water, or late afternoon when golden light colours the mountains. Depart before 10:30 am to avoid the crowds.
In Conclusion
The combination of Königssee, Ramsau and the Zauberwald shows why the Bavarian Alps are so beloved. Peace, nature and light come together here in a landscape that never gets boring. For me personally this was one of the highlights of autumn – and a place I’ll certainly return to.
More autumn inspiration? Check out my book “Autumn – The Splendour of Nature” which features many images of autumn in southern Germany, including photos of the Grosser Ahornboden.
Practical Information
Location and Getting There
| Region | Berchtesgadener Land, Bavaria, Germany |
| National Park | Berchtesgaden National Park |
| From Munich | 150 km (1 hour 45 min by car) |
| From Salzburg | 30 km (40 min by car) |
| GPS Car park | 47.5891° N, 12.9876° E |
By car: From Munich via the A8 towards Salzburg, exit Bad Reichenhall, then via the B20 to Berchtesgaden and Schönau am Königssee.
By public transport: Train to Berchtesgaden, then bus 841 to Schönau am Königssee (15 minutes). With a guest card from your accommodation, public transport in the region is free!
Boat Prices Königssee (2025)
| Return St. Bartholomä | €22.80 adult |
| Return Salet (incl. St. Bartholomä) | €29.00 adult |
| Children (6-17 years) | 50% discount |
| Children (0-5 years) | Free |
| Dog | €5.00 (muzzle required!) |
| Groups (20+ people) | €20.60 per person |
Note: All dogs must wear a muzzle on the boat, regardless of breed or size. Bring one with you!
Boat Timetable
- Summer (May-Oct): Boats to St. Bartholomä and Salet, departures every 15-30 minutes
- Winter (Oct-Apr): Only to St. Bartholomä, less frequent
- Journey time: 35 min to St. Bartholomä, another 20 min to Salet
- First boat: 8:00 am (summer), 9:00 am (winter)
- Closed: 24 December (Christmas Eve)
Tip: Depart before 10:30 am to avoid queues. In high season boats can be sold out in the afternoon!
Parking
| Car park Königssee | Seestraße 3, 83471 Schönau am Königssee |
| Up to 1 hour | €3.00 |
| Up to 3 hours | €7.00 |
| Day ticket | €8.00 |
| Payment | Machine (cash/card) or Parkster app |
The car park is large but can be full by around 10:00 am on nice summer days. Alternative: park in Berchtesgaden and take the bus.
What to Bring
- Good hiking boots
- Warm clothing (layers)
- Rain jacket
- Camera and tripod
- Water and snacks
- Cash (some machines)
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get to Königssee?
Königssee is located at Schönau am Königssee in the Berchtesgadener Land. By car it’s 1 hour 45 minutes from Munich via the A8. From Salzburg it’s only 40 minutes. There’s a large car park (€8 per day). By public transport: train to Berchtesgaden, then bus 841 to Königssee.
How much does a boat trip on Königssee cost?
A return ticket to St. Bartholomä costs €22.80 for adults (2025). The full route including Salet (for Obersee) costs €29.00. Children aged 6-17 pay half price, children up to 5 travel free. Tickets can be bought online or on site.
Can you swim in Königssee?
Yes, swimming is allowed in Königssee – it is after all Germany’s cleanest lake. There’s a swimming area near the pier. Note: the water is ice cold, even in summer! At St. Bartholomä there’s a pebble beach (15 minutes walk) that’s quieter.
When do boats sail to Obersee (Salet)?
Boats to Salet (terminus for the walk to Obersee) usually operate from late April to mid-October. In winter months the boat only goes to St. Bartholomä. Always check the current timetable on seenschifffahrt.de before your visit.
How long is the walk through the Zauberwald?
The complete circular walk from Ramsau via the Zauberwald to Hintersee and back is 12-14 km and takes 3.5-4.5 hours. For just the Zauberwald (one direction) allow 30-60 minutes. A loop around Hintersee is 2.8 km and takes about 1 hour.
Is Königssee suitable for families with children?
Absolutely! The boat trip is an adventure for children, and at St. Bartholomä there’s a playground behind the church. The walk along the lake is flat and suitable for pushchairs. At Hintersee you can rent rowing boats. The loop around Hintersee is pushchair-friendly.
Locations on the Map
Gallery
Pictures speak louder than words:
Useful Links
- Berchtesgaden National Park – nationalpark-berchtesgaden.bayern.de
- Königssee boat service – seenschifffahrt.de/en/koenigssee
- Ramsau Tourism – ramsau.de/en
- Berchtesgaden Info – berchtesgaden.de/en
- Parking Königssee – koenigssee.de/parkplaetze-tarife