Light, Silence and Mountains in the Dolomites
In the heart of the Dolomites, north of Seiser Alm, lies one of the most picturesque valleys in South Tyrol: Val di Funes (Villnösstal). A place where tranquility, nature and simplicity still come together. Especially in autumn, when the larches turn gold and the first snow covers the mountain peaks, this valley transforms into a true fairytale landscape. It’s a paradise for hikers and photographers. It’s perhaps also one of the most visited places in the Dolomites, but definitely a place that should be on your list.
We visited Val di Funes in October, from our stay at Vista Dolomites in Santa Cristina Val Gardena. A perfect base for exploring both Seiser Alm, Seceda and this idyllic valley. The journey there takes you through a beautiful valley and enchanting landscape of rolling hills and forests, with views of the impressive massif of the Odle (Geisler) group.
About Val di Funes
Val di Funes (German: Villnösstal) is a 24 km long valley in South Tyrol, located on the western edge of the Puez-Odle Nature Park, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites. The valley stretches from Chiusa/Klausen in the south to the foot of the imposing Odle (Geisler) mountain group in the north.
The Odle peaks, with their characteristic jagged silhouette, rise up to 3,025 metres and form one of the most iconic mountain landscapes in the Dolomites. The contrast between the soft green meadows and the rugged limestone walls makes this one of the most photographed places in all of Italy.
Interesting: Val di Funes is located in an area where three languages come together: Italian, German and Ladin. You can see this in the bilingual signs and the mix of architecture and cuisine. The valley is also a “Slow Food Travel” destination with a focus on sustainable tourism.
Location and Getting There
Val di Funes is located east of Bressanone (Brixen) and is easily accessible by car. From Santa Cristina, you drive via Ortisei and the Passo delle Erbe or via Chiusa in about an hour to the valley. It’s a peaceful drive with beautiful panoramas and stunning nature along the way.
| From Bressanone/Brixen | 15 km (25-30 min) |
| From Bolzano/Bozen | 45 km (45 min) |
| From Ortisei/St. Ulrich | 25 km (35 min) |
| From Cortina d’Ampezzo | 85 km (1 hour 30 min) |
| From Innsbruck | 115 km (1 hour 30 min) |
From the A22 motorway (Brennero), take the Chiusa/Klausen exit and follow the signs towards Val di Funes/Villnöss. The road winds through the valley to Santa Maddalena and ends at the Zannes car park.
Public transport: Bus 340 runs every hour between Bressanone/Brixen and Val di Funes (final stop Ranui). With a Mobilcard or Südtirol Guest Pass you travel for free. Bus 339 connects the villages within the valley, but only runs 3-4 times a day.
Santa Maddalena and the Ranui Chapel
The most famous viewpoint in the valley is undoubtedly that of Santa Maddalena. The small church with the jagged peaks of the Odle behind it forms one of the most iconic images of the Dolomites. In autumn, when the light is soft and a thin mist hangs over the valley, it’s magically beautiful. From various spots in the village, you can capture the view – each with a slightly different perspective.
Santa Maddalena is a village with approximately 370 inhabitants at 1,339 metres elevation. The village forms the perfect base for hikes in the Puez-Odle Nature Park and the famous Adolf Munkel Trail.
Photography tip: The famous panorama point is reached via a walk of approximately 30 minutes from the village centre. The road to the church is closed to cars. Sunset provides the most beautiful light on the mountains!
A few kilometres further lies the Ranui Chapel (San Giovanni in Ranui), a tiny baroque chapel that is particularly photogenic. This is evident from the many people who are still at work with a camera around the church even in October.
It sits amidst meadows with the Odle peaks behind it once again – a setting that seems to come straight from a painting. Especially in late afternoon, when the sun is low and the light turns golden, it’s at its most beautiful here. Keep in mind that the terrain around the chapel is private property; so stay on the marked paths and respect the barriers.
Note: For access to the meadows around the Ranui Chapel you pay €4 entrance fee (cash only). Drones are prohibited throughout the entire area.
For the iconic photo, you need to walk a bit along the road towards the village. There is a designated spot from where you have a beautiful view of the chapel.
Hiking in Val di Funes
Various hiking routes depart from the valley, ranging from easy paths to more challenging mountain tours. One of the most beautiful hikes is undoubtedly the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle), which runs along the foot of the Odle. The path leads through forests, past open meadows and offers constantly changing views of the impressive limestone walls. Especially in autumn, when the trees change colour and the light is warm, this is an unforgettable experience.
Adolf Munkel Trail – Route Details
| Distance | 9-10 km (loop trail) |
| Duration | 3-4 hours (excluding breaks) |
| Difficulty | Easy to moderate |
| Elevation gain | Approximately 400 metres |
| Start/Finish | Zannes/Malga Zannes car park (1,680 m) |
| Highest point | Rifugio delle Odle/Geisler Alm (2,000 m) |
| Trail numbers | 6, 35, 36 |
Hiking tip: Walk the Adolf Munkel Trail counter-clockwise for the best views of the Odle peaks. Make sure to stop at the Geisler Alm (Rifugio delle Odle) – the iconic deck chairs with mountain views (the “Geislerkino”) are unforgettable!
There are – as everywhere in the Dolomites – countless beautiful hiking routes in the area. For those who want the easy route and simply come for the photos, there’s plenty of choice too. Although being active in nature, meaning longer hikes, provides the greatest experience.
Santa Maddalena Panorama Trail – Route Details
| Distance | 8 km (loop trail) |
| Duration | 3 hours |
| Difficulty | Average |
| Elevation gain | Approximately 450 metres |
| Start/Finish | Santa Maddalena village |
| Highlights | Panorama point, Santa Maddalena church, historic farmsteads |
The routes are well-maintained and suitable for anyone with reasonable fitness. Wear good hiking shoes and bring sufficient food and drinks, as rest stops are limited outside the summer season.
Mountain Huts and Dining
One of the highlights of hiking in Val di Funes are the authentic mountain huts (Almen) where you can enjoy traditional South Tyrolean dishes. Along the Adolf Munkel Trail you’ll find several huts:
- Geisler Alm / Rifugio delle Odle (2,000 m) – The famous hut with deck chairs and breathtaking views
- Gschnagenhardt Alm / Malga Casnago (1,996 m) – Quiet alm with local specialties
- Brogles Alm / Rifugio Malga Brogles (2,045 m) – Open from mid-June to mid-October
- Gampen Alm – Approximately 1.5 hours walk from Zannes
Culinary tip: Try the typical South Tyrolean dishes: Speck (smoked ham), Knödel (bread dumplings), Kaiserschmarrn (sweet shredded pancake) and local cheeses. Most huts are open from June to October.
Where to Stay in Val di Funes
Although we stayed at Vista Dolomites in Santa Cristina, there are also many atmospheric guesthouses, gasthofen and farms in the valley itself that offer rooms or apartments. Popular places to stay are Santa Maddalena and St. Peter.
Recommended accommodations in Val di Funes:
- Hotel Tyrol Dolomites – 4-star hotel in Santa Maddalena with spa and views of the Odle
- Fallerhof – Authentic farmstead with apartments, close to the church
- Pension Sonia – Budget-friendly guesthouse with breakfast
Best Time to Visit Val di Funes
Val di Funes is beautiful year-round, but each season has its own charm:
| Spring (May-June) | Green meadows full of wildflowers, snow-capped peaks. Quiet. |
| Summer (July-Aug) | Best period for longer hikes. All huts open. Busier. |
| Autumn (Sept-Oct) | Golden larches, soft light, mist. Our favourite period! |
| Winter (Nov-Apr) | Snow landscape, cross-country skiing, tobogganing. Adolf Munkel Trail closed. |
Autumn is without doubt the most beautiful period. From late September to late October, the forests turn gold and orange, and there’s often a light mist hanging in the valley – perfect for photography.
In the early morning it can be chilly, so dress in layers. Summer is more suitable for longer hikes, but of course it’s also busier on the trails than outside the high season.
Our tip: Visit Val di Funes in October for the most beautiful autumn colours. The golden larches against the grey rock walls of the Odle are unforgettable. Arrive early for the best parking spots!
In Conclusion
Val di Funes is a place where nature and tranquility are still truly palpable. No mass tourism, no rush – just the scent of pine trees and the light that constantly changes. For me personally, this is one of those places where you understand why the Dolomites are so special.
More inspiration? Also read my earlier blogs about Seiser Alm and Seceda, or check out the book Dolomites – A Journey Through Breathtaking Heights.
Practical Information
Location and Getting There
| Region | South Tyrol (Alto Adige), Italy |
| Nature Park | Puez-Odle (UNESCO World Heritage) |
| Municipality | Funes/Villnöss |
| Elevation Santa Maddalena | 1,339 metres |
| GPS Santa Maddalena | 46.6464° N, 11.6833° E |
Parking
| Santa Maddalena village | €4/day (paid parking, card or cash) |
| Santa Maddalena free | Small car park, max 8-12 cars |
| Ranui (chapel) | €4/day |
| Zannes/Malga Zannes | €8-10/day (start Adolf Munkel Trail) |
Tip: The car park at Zannes fills up quickly, especially in high season. Arrive before 9:00 am or in the afternoon. You can book in advance at villnoess.com.
Access and Costs
- Hiking trails: Free access
- Ranui chapel grounds: €4 entrance fee (cash only)
- Drones: Prohibited throughout the area
- Dogs: Welcome, on leash
Facilities
- Visitor centre: Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in Santa Maddalena
- UNESCO Info Point: At Zannes car park
- Restaurants: Various gasthofen in Santa Maddalena and St. Peter
- Mountain huts: Several along the hiking routes (June-October)
What to Bring
- Good hiking shoes
- Warm clothing in layers
- Rain jacket (mountain weather changes quickly)
- Water and snacks
- Cash (huts, parking)
- Camera and tripod
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Adolf Munkel Trail?
The Adolf Munkel Trail is a loop hike of 9-10 km that takes approximately 3-4 hours (excluding breaks). The route starts at the Zannes car park and passes the Geisler Alm and Gschnagenhardt Alm. The elevation gain is approximately 400 metres. It’s an easy to moderate hike, suitable for anyone with reasonable fitness.
Where can I find the famous Santa Maddalena viewpoint?
The iconic panorama point is reached via a walk of approximately 30 minutes uphill from the village centre of Santa Maddalena. The road to the church is closed to cars, so you must walk. Park at one of the car parks in the village (€4/day). The best light is at sunset.
How much does parking cost in Val di Funes?
Parking in Santa Maddalena costs €4/day. At Zannes (start of the Adolf Munkel Trail) you pay €8-10/day. There is a small free car park in Santa Maddalena, but it’s limited to 8-12 cars and often full. The car park at Zannes fills up quickly – arrive before 9:00 am or book in advance.
What is the best time to visit Val di Funes?
Autumn (late September to late October) is the most beautiful period: golden larches, soft light and often an atmospheric mist. Summer is ideal for longer hikes, but busier. Spring offers green meadows with wildflowers. Winter is beautiful for snow photography, but many trails are closed.
Can I reach Val di Funes by public transport?
Yes! Bus 340 runs every hour between Bressanone/Brixen and Val di Funes (final stop Ranui, approximately 1 hour). With a Mobilcard or Südtirol Guest Pass you travel for free. Bus 339 connects the villages in the valley but only runs 3-4 times a day. You can also take the train to Brixen and catch the bus from there.
Do I have to pay to photograph the Ranui Chapel?
Yes, for access to the meadows around the Ranui Chapel you pay €4 entrance fee (cash only). Without paying, you cannot take the iconic photo with the Odle mountains in the background, as the chapel is on private property. Drones are prohibited throughout the entire area.
Location on the Map
Gallery
Pictures speak louder than words:
Useful Links
- Official website Val di Funes – villnoess.com
- Puez-Odle Nature Park – provinz.bz.it
- Vista Dolomites (Santa Cristina) – vistadolomites.com
- South Tyrol Tourism – suedtirol.info
- Public transport South Tyrol – suedtirolmobil.info
- Adolf Munkel Trail info – villnoess.com/adolf-munkel-trail