Christiansø – An Island Full of Silence, Light and History in the Baltic Sea
If you’re staying on the Danish island of Bornholm, a day trip to the small island of Christiansø is highly recommended. It’s a beautiful place where time seems unhurried and where silence is truly silent.
To reach Christiansø, you need to take the ferry from Gudhjem. It’s a beautiful old ferry that is kept in excellent condition. When we made the trip, the weather was perfect with calm waters and warm sunlight on the deck.
I’m a lover of old ships, and this crossing felt like a small adventure in itself. As soon as Christiansø comes into view, you immediately see how special its location is: a group of islands, surrounded by open sea, with old fortress walls and houses that seem to lean against the elements. It’s truly a day trip you must experience when staying on Bornholm.
History of Christiansø
Christiansø is part of the Ertholmene archipelago and was established as a Danish naval fortress from 1684. The location in the middle of the Baltic Sea was strategically ideal: ships could be monitored from here and the Danish fleet had a safe base against Swedish and German influence in the region. The round towers – Store Tårn on Christiansø and Lille Tårn on Frederiksø – together formed the heart of the defense.
Over the centuries, the island was fortified with walls, batteries and magazines. Part of this is still fully intact and gives Christiansø its special, almost timeless appearance. The houses within the fortress were originally built for soldiers, craftsmen and their families. Later, the island was mainly used as a prison and as a military observation post during various conflicts in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Today, only about ninety people live permanently on the islands. The old buildings are still in use and carefully maintained. That makes a walk on Christiansø so special: you walk through living history, but in a silence that is rarely found anywhere else in Denmark.
Location and Route
Christiansø is located northeast of Bornholm, approximately 18 kilometers off the coast. It consists of two inhabited islands – Christiansø (22.3 hectares) and Frederiksø (4 hectares) – connected by a 30-meter pedestrian bridge. The crossing from Gudhjem takes about an hour. It’s a journey that immediately puts you in a different rhythm.
Upon arrival, you walk directly into the old fortress. The stone walls, round towers, narrow streets and wooden houses give the whole place an almost timeless atmosphere. You hear seagulls, you smell the sea and there is light everywhere. The island is barely forested, so the horizon is always close by.
Photography on Christiansø
Christiansø is a paradise for photographers: low buildings, sight lines everywhere, rugged rocks and great openness to the sea. The light constantly changes because there are no forests or high hills. Morning brings cool, blue light; in the evening everything becomes warmer and quieter.
Currently, drone use on Christiansø is not recommended due to the island’s location in the Baltic Sea and the threat from Russia.
I took many photos here: minimalist seascapes, details of old walls, the silhouette of the towers, and drone photos where the shape of the island is beautifully visible. Due to the different heights and open spaces, it’s an ideal place to play with viewpoint and composition.
Walking Route Christiansø: Loop Around Both Islands
Route Details
- Distance: Approximately 2.5 km (both islands combined)
- Duration: 1.5 – 2 hours (including photo stops and sightseeing)
- Difficulty: Easy – flat paths and easily accessible
- Elevation gain: Minimal (highest point 22 meters above sea level)
- Start/finish: Christiansø harbour
- Route type: Loop along coastal paths and through the fortress complex
- Suitable for: All ages, families, photographers
Route Description
From the harbour, first walk northward along the quay and go up via the stone steps. You pass the old Commander’s Residence (now the inn) and the grocery shop. Continue south where you reach “Gaden”, the only real street on the island where the soldiers once lived. At the end of Gaden you’ll find the old inn and Palivaren, a former quarantine building that now serves as a gallery.
Continue your route along Kongens Bastion, Coucherons Bastion and Dronningens Bastion. Here you can see how extensive the fortress structures are. Walk westward along Rantzaus Bastion and Gyldenløves Bastion with views of the bird island Græsholm and the small islet of Tat where seals rest.
From Christiansø you cross via the 30-meter pedestrian bridge to Frederiksø. This smaller island has its own character with Lille Tårn (the small tower) as its eye-catcher. Walk the loop around Frederiksø along coastal paths with beautiful rock formations. There’s also a swimming jetty where you can take a dip in summer.
Back on Christiansø you can climb Store Tårn for a fantastic view over the entire archipelago. The tower also houses a museum with historical, artistic and ornithological exhibitions.
Take your time to admire the island at your leisure. There are many spots where you can enjoy the overwhelming peace. The island feels larger than it actually is, because every corner has a different atmosphere.
Food and Drink on Christiansø
Between walks, we had lunch on a small terrace. Simple, but delicious after a few hours in the sea wind. Christiansø is not a place for busy restaurants or big attractions – it’s precisely that simplicity that defines its charm.
- Christiansø Gæstgiveri: Restaurant with fresh fish and local specialties (reservation recommended for dinner)
- Kiosk/grocery shop: For snacks, drinks and basic necessities
- Ruths Kryddersild: Fish smokehouse where you can buy delicious marinated herring according to traditional recipes
- Own picnic: There are plenty of beautiful spots to enjoy your own lunch
Best Time to Visit Christiansø
We prefer to come in May or September. Both months give Christiansø something special: quiet paths, clear light and an atmosphere that feels unhurried. In May, nature is just beginning to open up after winter, while September feels warm with long, soft evenings.
- May-June: Spring, bird breeding season, less crowded, blooming nature
- July-August (high season): Most ferries (up to 3x per day), all facilities open, but busier with day tourists
- September: Autumn, quiet, warm light, fewer visitors
- October-April (low season): Fewer ferries (1-2x per day, weekdays only in winter), most authentic experience, very quiet but fewer facilities
Practical Information: How to Get to Christiansø
Ferry from Gudhjem
Christiansø is only accessible by ferry from Gudhjem harbour. The crossing takes approximately 55 minutes to 1 hour. Christiansøfarten operates the connection with several daily departures.
- Ferry operator: Christiansøfarten (M/S Ertholm in high season, mail boat Peter in winter)
- Departure: Gudhjem harbour, Ejnar Mikkelsensvej 25
- Journey time: 55 minutes – 1 hour
- Frequency: High season (May-September): 2-3x per day daily | Low season: 1-2x per day on weekdays
- Booking: Online booking strongly recommended via christiansoefarten.dk
- Check-in: Arrive at least 15 minutes before departure
Costs and Tickets (2024-2025)
- Adults: DKK 245 (low season) – DKK 320 (high season) return
- Children 6-14 years: DKK 130 (low season) – DKK 160 (high season)
- Children under 6 years: Free
- High season offer (27/6-9/8): On the 12:30 departure, 1 child up to 14 years travels free per adult (passenger fee DKK 25 still applies)
- Guided tour on island: DKK 75 per person (1 hour, can be booked with ticket)
- Entry Store Tårn + Lille Tårn: DKK 75 adults, DKK 40 children under 10 years
Prices verified: December 2024. Always check current prices on the Christiansøfarten website.
Parking in Gudhjem
Parking directly at the harbour is limited and paid. You can also use the the free parking areas above town:
- At the gas station on Helligdomsvej (opposite Brøddegade)
- At Melstedvej near Gudhjem Church and Gudhjem Søpark
- From these parking areas it’s 500-850 meters walk to the harbour (downhill)
- Signposting available with historical information about Gudhjem
Arrive early: in high season the ferry can be busy and tickets may sell out. Online booking guarantees your spot.
What to Bring
- Windproof jacket: Even on sunny days it’s quite windy on the sea and on the island
- Camera: The photo opportunities are endless
- Picnic: There’s a restaurant and kiosk, but bringing your own lunch is also perfect
- Comfortable walking shoes: The entire island can be explored on foot
- No dogs allowed: Due to open water reservoirs and bird protection (exception: guide dogs on leash)
Time Needed for Visit
- Minimum: 2-3 hours on the island (between two ferries)
- Recommended: 4-5 hours for leisurely walking, lunch and photography
- Total day trip: Allow 6-7 hours including ferry journey there and back
- Overnight stays possible: Christiansø Gæstgiveri (6 rooms) or camping (max. 20 tents – reservation required)
Frequently Asked Questions About Christiansø
How do you get to Christiansø?
Christiansø is only accessible by ferry operated by Christiansøfarten from Gudhjem harbour on Bornholm. The crossing takes approximately 55 minutes to 1 hour. In high season (May-September) there are 2-3 boats per day, in low season 1-2 boats per day. Online booking via christiansoefarten.dk is strongly recommended, especially in high season.
What are the costs for visiting Christiansø?
A return ferry ticket costs DKK 245-320 for adults (depending on season) and DKK 130-160 for children aged 6-14. Children under 6 travel free. Entry to the towers (Store Tårn and Lille Tårn) costs DKK 75 for adults and DKK 40 for children under 10. A guided tour costs DKK 75 per person and lasts approximately 1 hour.
How much time do you need on Christiansø?
For a visit to Christiansø you need at least 2-3 hours to walk leisurely around both islands. If you also want to have lunch, climb the towers and take extensive photographs, 4-5 hours is recommended. For the entire day trip including the ferry journey there and back, allow 6-7 hours.
Is Christiansø suitable for children and families?
Yes, Christiansø is very suitable for families with children. The walking paths are easily accessible and flat, there’s lots to discover (fortress walls, towers, old cannons) and the distance is manageable. In high season, children up to 14 years can travel free on the afternoon ferry. Note: dogs and bicycles are not allowed on the island.
What is the best time for photography on Christiansø?
For photography, morning and evening are ideal due to the soft, golden light. The openness of the island means you can capture beautiful long shadows and silhouettes. The best season is May or September: clear light, fewer visitors and interesting skies. Drone use is not recommended due to the geopolitical situation in the Baltic Sea.
Can you stay overnight on Christiansø?
Yes, overnight stays are possible. Christiansø Gæstgiveri has 6 rooms for rent. There’s also a small campsite at Hertugindens Bastion with space for a maximum of 20 tents. Reservation is required for both options, especially in high season. An overnight stay gives you the unique experience of the island in the evening and early morning, when all day tourists have left.
In Conclusion
For me, Christiansø is one of the most special places in the Baltic Sea. Not because there’s a lot to do, but precisely because of what there isn’t: haste, crowds, noise. It’s a place to walk slowly, look, breathe and photograph. Simplicity, light and sea – that’s all you need here.
Want to read more about Bornholm? Also check out my stories about Dueodde Beach or my book Bornholm – Pearl of the Baltic Sea.
Useful Links and Information
- Christiansø official website – christiansoe.dk/en (information about the island, history, activities)
- Ferry booking – christiansoefarten.dk (Christiansøfarten, online ferry ticket booking)
- Visit Bornholm – bornholm.info/en (tourist information Bornholm)
- Parking in Gudhjem – Gudhjem parking guide (free parking areas above town)
Location on the Map
Pictures say more than words:
