Cascate di Fanes – Hidden Waterfalls in the Dolomites
I’m always searching for those places that haven’t been taken over by mass tourism. A location where you can truly enjoy nature, savour your brought-along cup of coffee undisturbed, and photograph to your heart’s content. Cascate di Fanes is certainly such a place in the Dolomites. Not yet discovered by mass tourism, so no long queues of visitors like at Tre Cime di Lavaredo or Alpe di Siusi.
About Cascate di Fanes
The Cascate di Fanes (Italian for “Fanes Waterfalls”) are a series of spectacular waterfalls in a deeply carved canyon in the heart of the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo. This protected nature reserve lies north of Cortina d’Ampezzo and offers a unique combination of rushing water, deep gorges, and breathtaking rock formations.
The route passes six waterfalls, of which only the first and last have official names. The largest and most impressive is the Cascata di Fanes – a mighty waterfall approximately 90 metres high that cascades down in two stages. This makes it one of the highest waterfalls in the Dolomites. The last waterfall, Sbarco da Fanes, is equally spectacular and can be admired up close via a via ferrata.
At the very top, you can even walk behind the waterfall.
The water flows via the Rio Fanes, which originates on the Fanes plateau and has carved its way through the rocks here. Especially in spring, when the snow melts, the waterfalls are particularly impressive due to the enormous volume of water.
| Location | Parco Naturale Dolomiti d’Ampezzo, north of Cortina |
| Highest waterfall | Cascata di Fanes – approx. 90 m |
| Total drop height | ~120 metres (all waterfalls combined) |
| Number of waterfalls | 6 waterfalls along the route |
| River | Rio Fanes |
| GPS Car park | 46.5934° N, 12.1131° E |
Location and How to Get There
The Cascate di Fanes are located in the Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo, a protected nature reserve of 37,000 hectares north of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The area borders the better-known Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park and together they form one of the largest contiguous natural areas in the Dolomites.
The starting point for the hike is the free car park at the nature park’s visitor centre, near Fiames. From here, it’s approximately an hour’s walk to the viewpoint overlooking the main waterfall.
| From Cortina d’Ampezzo | ~7 km (~15 min) |
| From Dobbiaco/Toblach | ~25 km (~30 min) |
| From Misurina | ~15 km (~20 min) |
| Parking | Free at nature park visitor centre |
| Alternative parking | Sant’Uberto car park (€8, 2025) |
Driving Directions
From the centre of Cortina d’Ampezzo, take the SS51 towards Dobbiaco. After the hamlet of Fiames, turn left at the sign for “Pian de Loa” and drive to the car park at the nature park information centre. There’s also a second, larger car park further along if the first one is full.
Public Transport
- Bus line 1: From the bus station in Cortina to Hotel Fiames (terminus), then ~30 min walk to the car park
- SAD bus to Dobbiaco: Get off at “Sant’Uberto” stop and join path 10
The Legend of the Kingdom of Fanes
The name “Fanes” refers to the legendary Kingdom of Fanes (RĂ«gn de Fanes in Ladin) – the national epic of the Ladin people in the Dolomites. This ancient legend, collected by Austrian journalist Karl Felix Wolff in his book Dolomitensagen (1911), tells of a mythical people who once inhabited the high plateaus of the Dolomites.
According to legend, the Fanes lived in peace, allied with the marmots. The king’s daughter Dolasilla became a legendary warrior with an invulnerable silver armour and unerring arrows, gifted by the dwarves. But betrayal and greed led to the kingdom’s downfall. The survivors fled with the marmots into the mountains, where they still wait for the sound of silver trumpets announcing the rebirth of their realm.
The waterfalls and the Val di Fanes form the backdrop of this epic. The “Parliament of the Marmots” – a circular rock formation on the Fanes plateau – commemorates the ancient alliance. The petrified king can supposedly still be seen at the Falzarego Pass as “Falza Rego” (false king).
The Surrounding Area
The area around the Cascate di Fanes offers much more to discover:
Natural Highlights
- Ponte Outo (Ponte Alto): Impressive wooden bridge 80 metres above the gorge where Rio Travenanzes and Rio Fanes meet
- Pian de Loa: Idyllic forest clearing with wooden water fountain
- Ra ciòces: Two majestic historic trees along the path
- Botanical path: Informative route about local flora, including rare orchids
Nearby
- Cortina d’Ampezzo: Charming Alpine village, host city of the 2026 Winter Olympics
- Lago di Misurina: Beautiful mountain lake (~15 km)
- Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The iconic three peaks (~25 km)
- Lago di Braies: The “pearl of the Dolomites” (~40 km)
Photography at the Cascate di Fanes
For photographers, the Fanes waterfalls are a fantastic destination. The combination of rushing water, deep gorges, and filtered forest light offers endless possibilities.
Photography tip – Long exposures: Bring an ND filter and tripod for those classic “silky smooth” waterfall photos. A shutter speed of 1-2 seconds usually works perfectly. Even on overcast days, you’ll need an ND filter to sufficiently extend the shutter speed.
Photography tip – Best light: The waterfalls are located in a deep gorge, so direct sunlight can create harsh contrasts. Overcast days or early morning/late afternoon provide the most beautiful, even light. When the sun shines, you’ll get beautiful rainbows in the mist!
Equipment: A wide-angle lens (14-24mm) is essential to capture the 90-metre-high waterfall. Also bring a rain cover for your camera – the mist at the waterfalls is quite wet, especially if you walk behind the waterfall via the via ferrata!
Walking Routes at the Cascate di Fanes
The route you naturally want to choose here is to the waterfalls. At a certain point, you’ll reach a junction and must choose left or right. You can walk the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise. If you go left, you first walk uphill and then descend along the waterfalls. That’s the route we chose. This gives you all the time to calmly admire the waterfalls and, in my case, time to take photos. It’s steep at times, but that shouldn’t spoil the fun.
Route 1: Complete Waterfall Route (with Via Ferrata)
This is the most complete route that takes you past all six waterfalls and even lets you walk behind the main waterfall. Note: for the via ferrata sections, you need proper equipment and fitness. Always check the weather and bring sufficient provisions and clothing.
| Distance | ~9 km (complete loop) |
| Duration | 4-5 hours |
| Elevation gain | ~500 m |
| Difficulty | Moderate to Challenging (via ferrata sections) |
| Start/Finish | Car park |
| Via Ferrata | Giovanni Barbara – Difficulty K1-K2 |
Alternatives
If you want a less demanding route, here are a few alternatives. You’ll miss the most technical parts, but these still offer a beautiful circuit through the stunning nature and you’ll see plenty of the waterfalls.
Route 2: Cascata di Fanes Viewpoint (easy)
A straightforward walk to the belvedere with spectacular views of the main waterfall. Suitable for families and less experienced hikers.
| Distance | ~6.5 km |
| Duration | 2 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Elevation gain | 350 m |
| Start/Finish | Verocai / visitor centre |
Route 3: Via Sant’Uberto Castle Ruins
An alternative route that takes you past the ruins of Sant’Uberto castle to the viewpoint.
| Distance | ~6.5 km |
| Duration | 2-2.5 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Elevation gain | 190 m |
| Start/Finish | Verocai |
Best Time to Visit
The Cascate di Fanes are best visited from April to November, with each season having its own charm.
| April-May | Meltwater! Waterfalls at their most powerful, spectacular but paths can be wet |
| June-August | Best weather, all routes open, warmer and more pleasant |
| September-October | Autumn colours, quieter, forest is beautiful |
| November | Last chance, changeable weather, possible ice on paths |
| Winter | Not accessible (cross-country ski track in the valley) |
Tip: Spring (April-May) is the best time for the most spectacular waterfalls due to the meltwater. But be prepared for wetter paths and more mist at the waterfalls. Summer is busier but more pleasant temperature-wise. Autumn offers beautiful colours in the forest surrounding the waterfalls.
Accommodation in the Area
For a visit to the Cascate di Fanes, Cortina d’Ampezzo is the most obvious base. This charming Alpine village offers a wide range of accommodation, restaurants, and shops.
Accommodation Options
- Cortina d’Ampezzo: Wide range from luxury hotels to B&Bs, ~15 min drive
- Hotel Fiames: Right at the bus stop, good base
- Lago di Misurina: Beautifully located hotels by the mountain lake, ~20 min drive
- Dobbiaco/Toblach: Quiet alternative in South Tyrol, ~30 min drive
There are no mountain huts directly at the waterfalls, so plan your hike on a full stomach or bring sufficient lunch!
Practical Information
Access and Costs (2025)
| Nature park access | Free |
| Parking visitor centre | Free |
| Parking Sant’Uberto | ~€8 per day |
| Via ferrata equipment hire | €16-23 per person (Cortina) |
| Guided tour | Via Guide Alpine Cortina |
Facilities
- Parking: Free car park at visitor centre (arrive early in peak season!)
- Information centre: At the car park, information about routes and conditions
- Toilets: At the information centre
- Restaurant/café: Hotel Fiames (~30 min walk) or Chalet Spiaggia Verde
- Via ferrata hire: Snow Service or Rock and Ice in Cortina
What to Bring
- Sturdy hiking boots: Essential! The paths can be wet and slippery
- Rain jacket: You’ll get wet at the waterfalls, especially on the via ferrata
- Via ferrata equipment: Helmet, harness, carabiners (available for hire in Cortina)
- Water and lunch: No mountain huts along the route
- Camera + rain cover: The mist is quite wet!
- Tripod + ND filter: For waterfall photography
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you get to Cascate di Fanes?
From Cortina d’Ampezzo, drive towards Dobbiaco via the SS51. After the hamlet of Fiames, turn left towards “Pian de Loa” and park at the free nature park visitor centre. From here, it’s approximately an hour’s walk to the waterfalls.
Do you need special equipment?
For the easy route to the viewpoint, you only need good hiking boots. For the complete route with via ferrata, you need climbing equipment: helmet, harness, and carabiners. You can hire these in Cortina for €16-23 per person.
How long does the hike take?
The easy route to the viewpoint takes 1.5-2 hours return. The complete route with all waterfalls and via ferrata takes 4-5 hours. Add extra time for photo stops – you won’t want to rush here!
When is the best time to visit?
The waterfalls are accessible from April to November. Spring (April-May) offers the most spectacular waterfalls due to the meltwater. Summer is more pleasant temperature-wise. Autumn brings beautiful colours in the forest.
Is the hike suitable for children?
The easy route to the viewpoint is suitable for families with children. The path is wide and mostly flat. The via ferrata routes are not suitable for young children.
Can you walk behind the waterfall?
Yes! Via the Via Ferrata Giovanni Barbara, you can actually walk behind the main waterfall – an unforgettable experience! You do need climbing equipment and you’re guaranteed to get wet. Bring a rain jacket.
Final Thoughts
If you’re in the Dolomites, you’ll naturally want to see the popular attractions. But Cascate di Fanes is definitely recommended if you want to spend a day in nature in peace and quiet. Take your time and walk at leisure uphill, then on the way down take in all the waterfalls and nature.
The combination of spectacular waterfalls, the mystical legend of the Kingdom of Fanes, and the relative tranquillity compared to busier places like Tre Cime makes this a true hidden gem. Whether you come for the photography, the hiking, or simply to enjoy nature – the Cascate di Fanes won’t disappoint.
In my photo book Dolomites – A Journey Through Breathtaking Heights, you can get a wonderful impression of this magnificent region through many beautiful photographs. Most locations also include QR codes giving you direct access to additional location information.
Useful Links
- Parco Dolomiti d’Ampezzo – dolomitiampezzo.it
- Via Ferrata Giovanni Barbara – cortina.dolomiti.org
- Cortina Tourism – dolomiti.org
- Guide Alpine Cortina – guidecortina.com
- Dolomiti Bus – Bus connections: dolomitibus.it
Location on Map
Related Articles
- Tre Cime di Lavaredo – The Three Peaks of the Dolomites
- Lago Federa – Hidden mountain lake in the Dolomites
- Lago di Braies – The pearl of the Dolomites
- Val di Funes – The magic of Santa Maddalena
- Seceda and Col Raiser – Spectacular mountain peaks
- Seiser Alm – The high plateau of the Dolomites
Gallery
Pictures speak louder than words:
