Inisheer – The Quiet Island of the Aran Islands
Off the west coast of Ireland, where Atlantic waves crash against the rocks, lie the Aran Islands – three rugged islands where life seems to move at a different pace. Inisheer (in Irish: Inis Oírr) is the smallest of the three and also the most intimate. From the moment you dock at the small harbour, everything feels simpler, calmer and more authentic. Stone walls wind through the landscape, cattle graze along narrow roads and everywhere you hear the wind blowing through the grass. A place where time seems to stand still.
About Inisheer (Inis Oírr)
Inisheer is the smallest and most easterly of the three Aran Islands, located at the mouth of Galway Bay. The name literally means “Eastern Island”. At just 3 square kilometres, it’s a walker’s paradise – you can explore the entire island in a few hours. The island is a geological extension of The Burren on the mainland, with the same unique limestone formations, rare flora and arctic, Mediterranean and alpine plants growing side by side.
| Area | ~3 km² (3 x 2 km) |
| Population | ~300 inhabitants |
| Language | Irish Gaelic (and English) |
| Part of | Aran Islands, County Galway |
| Distance to Doolin | 8 km |
| GPS harbour | 53.0634° N, 9.5294° W |
The inhabitants still partly speak Irish Gaelic – the island is one of the last strongholds of the language. Every year hundreds of students come to the Irish language schools to improve their knowledge. The islanders live mainly from fishing and small-scale tourism. There are only a few pubs, a small shop and a school – the island doesn’t really need more.
How to Get to Inisheer
Inisheer lies off the west coast of Ireland, west of Doolin in County Clare. Boats depart daily from Doolin with Doolin Ferry Company to the three Aran Islands: Inisheer, Inishmaan and Inishmore. The crossing to Inisheer takes just 15 minutes on the fast ferry and is an experience in itself – especially when the Atlantic waves add some excitement.
| From Doolin (fast ferry) | 15 minutes |
| From Rossaveel (Galway) | 55 minutes |
| Return ticket Doolin | €18-35 per adult (2025) |
| One-way Doolin | €13-25 per adult |
| Season | March – November (daily) |
| By plane | 10 min from Connemara Airport |
On the return journey, the boat often sails past the impressive Cliffs of Moher. This is an optional booking but definitely worth it. The imposing rock walls rise more than 200 metres from the sea, and from the water you get a completely different perspective than from above. This makes the day trip from Doolin extra special.
Tip: Book a combo ticket with the Cliffs of Moher Cruise on your return to Doolin. You pay a bit more but get a spectacular perspective on the cliffs from the sea – absolutely worth it!
Nature and Atmosphere on the Island
The landscape of Inisheer consists of a patchwork of low stone walls, green meadows and grey limestone – the same bedrock that makes The Burren on the mainland so unique. Due to the flat terrain and wide views, it’s a place where you naturally slow down. Everywhere you see small farms, stacks of turf and lots of stone walls. The sound of the sea is never far away.
There are more than 1,000 miles of stone walls on the three Aran Islands combined – built by generations of farmers who had to remove stones from the land to be able to harvest. The walls are stacked without cement and protect crops from the Atlantic wind. The result is the unique landscape you see everywhere on the island.
Attractions on Inisheer
MV Plassey Shipwreck
One of the most photogenic spots is the wreck of the MV Plassey, a 600-ton cargo ship that ran aground on Finnis Rock during a fierce storm on the night of 8 March 1960. Originally built in 1940 as HMS Juliet for the navy, it was later converted into a cargo vessel. It was carrying goods rarely seen by the islanders – biscuits, stained glass windows and even toilets!
Miraculously, all 11 crew members survived thanks to the heroic rescue efforts of the islanders. A few weeks later, the wreck was pushed further inland by a hurricane, where it still stands today as a sculpture in the landscape. The wreck became world-famous through the opening credits of the Irish comedy series Father Ted.
Photography tip: The wreck is most beautiful at sunrise when golden light illuminates the rusty hull, or with threatening skies as a dramatic backdrop. Walk to the east side of the island (~45 min from the pier) or rent a bike (~10 min).
O’Brien’s Castle (Caisleán Uí Bhriain)
O’Brien’s Castle, also called Furmina Castle, is an early 15th-century tower house built around 1400 by the Clann Teige, a branch of the powerful O’Brien family. The castle stands on the ruins of Dún Formna, a ring fort dating from around 400 BC – the Stone Age! From the highest point of the island you have a breathtaking view over all of Inisheer, the other Aran Islands, Galway Bay and on a clear day even the Cliffs of Moher.
Other Highlights
- Teampall Chaomháin – The 10th-century church of St. Caomhán, half-buried in sand, which the islanders regularly dig out
- Inis Oírr Lighthouse – Lighthouse from 1857 with beautiful views over the Atlantic Ocean
- An Trá – The beautiful white sandy beach right by the harbour with crystal-clear water
- Cill Ghobnait – 8th/9th-century church dedicated to St. Gobnait, patron saint of beekeepers
- An Túr Faire – 19th-century signal tower built during the Napoleonic era
- Loch Mór – The island’s only freshwater lake, on the way to the shipwreck
Walking and Exploring
Inisheer is small – you can walk around the whole island in a few hours. The paths lead past ruins, beaches and viewpoints. A must is the short walk to O’Brien’s Castle, a medieval ruin on top of a hill with views over the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of Moher on the horizon.
O’Brien’s Castle Loop Walk
| Distance | ~4 km |
| Duration | 1.5 hours |
| Difficulty | Easy-Average (steep section to castle) |
| Highlights | O’Brien’s Castle, Dún Formna, Signal Tower, views |
You can also choose the 10 km loop around the entire island:
Inis Oírr Island Loop
| Distance | ~11 km |
| Duration | 3-4 hours |
| Difficulty | Easy to moderate |
| Highlights | All major attractions |
Along the way you pass silent witnesses of centuries of habitation. The atmosphere is authentic and unspoilt – as if you’ve found a piece of Ireland that has hardly changed.
Getting Around the Island
There are several ways to explore Inisheer:
- On foot: The island is small enough to do everything on foot – the perfect way to soak up the atmosphere
- Bicycle: Rent a bike at the pier for a few euros per hour – the fastest way to see everything
- Pony and trap: Traditional horse-and-cart tours available at the pier
- Wanderly Wagon: A covered trailer pulled by a tractor – fun for families
- Minibus tours: ~1 hour round trips with local guides
Tip: There are virtually no cars on Inisheer (only for residents). This makes the island wonderfully peaceful and safe to explore on foot or by bike.
Photography on Inisheer
For photographers, Inisheer is a paradise of textures and light. The contrasts between grey stone, green grass and blue sea provide endless variations. In the early morning or late afternoon the light is soft and warm, perfect for landscape photography. But black-and-white images also work excellently here due to the graphic lines of the walls.
Photography tip: The stone walls create beautiful graphic patterns, especially from a higher perspective like O’Brien’s Castle. In low sun, the walls cast beautiful shadows that add depth to your photos.
Accommodation and Dining
During our trip we stayed at Aiteall Accommodation in Doolin – an absolute recommendation, it doesn’t get much better! A small-scale stay with an exceptionally friendly owner, who gave us the tip to visit Inisheer. A warm welcome, a delicious breakfast and the feeling that you’re truly at home.
After returning to Doolin you can enjoy a wonderful meal at McDermott’s Pub or McGann’s, both known for their live music and traditional Irish dishes. A perfect end to a day at sea.
On the island itself there are three pubs serving food and drinks, including Tigh Ned – known for authentic traditional music sessions where local residents make music together until the early hours.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Inisheer is between May and September. In June – when we were there – the island is green, lively yet peaceful. Attractions like the Cliffs of Moher were also pleasantly quiet. The days are long, the sea is mild and the temperature pleasant. In spring and early summer wild flowers bloom everywhere, while the light lingers until late in the evening.
| Spring (Mar-May) | Fresh colours, wild flowers, quiet, ideal for walking |
| Summer (Jun-Aug) | Longest days, most ferry services, festivals, busier period |
| Autumn (Sep-Nov) | Warm light, fewer tourists, often still mild weather |
| Winter (Dec-Feb) | Limited accessibility, stormy, but photogenic |
Tip: At the end of June the Craiceann Bodhrán Festival takes place – a summer school for the traditional Irish drum. The Patrún Festival celebrates the patron saints of the islands with boat racing, tug of war, donkey racing, music and dance.
A Personal Moment
After this beautiful day I couldn’t resist visiting the Cliffs of Moher in the evening. It was a beautiful evening with a sunset that lit up the cliffs beautifully. You can read more about that here. But during the sunset I could see the Aran Islands lying in the distance and was able to take this photo. A beautiful end to a beautiful day!
In Conclusion
Ireland has truly stolen my heart. What a beautiful country with rugged coasts and wonderfully friendly people. Highly recommended. Of course you want to see the top attractions like the Cliffs of Moher or Fanore Beach, but also include a trip to the Aran Islands in your travel plans.
Inisheer is small, simple and unforgettable. It’s a place where sea, wind and silence come together. An island you don’t visit to do things, but simply to be. Anyone visiting the west coast of Ireland shouldn’t miss this gem.
Want to see more images of Ireland? Check out my Ireland book or the Ireland calendar 2026 with QR codes to the locations.
Practical Information
Ferry Services
| Doolin Ferry Company | Fastest connection (15 min), March-November |
| Departure times Doolin | 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 (variable) |
| Return from Inisheer | 10:30, 11:30, 13:45, 16:45 |
| Aran Island Ferries | From Rossaveel (Galway), 55 min |
| Aer Arann Islands | Flights from Connemara Airport (10 min) |
Arrive at least 30 minutes before departure at the pier. Book online for the best prices and to avoid disappointment, especially in high season.
Facilities on the Island
- Beach: White sandy beach with crystal-clear water right by the harbour
- Playground: Top 10 in Ireland, right behind the beach
- Bike rental: At the pier
- Pubs: 3 pubs with food, drinks and often live music
- Shop: For basic necessities
- Aran Seaweed Bath & Spa: Wellness centre with sauna and hot tub
- Áras Éanna: Arts and heritage centre with exhibitions and events
What to Bring
- Windproof jacket
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Sunscreen
- Camera
- Picnic (limited options)
- Cash
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do you need on Inisheer?
Half a day (3-4 hours) is enough to see the main attractions. For a relaxed visit with walks and lunch, we recommend a full day. You can also stay overnight for the authentic island experience with traditional music in the pubs.
How much does the ferry to Inisheer cost?
A return ticket from Doolin costs €18-35 per adult (2025 prices). Children pay less, and family and group rates are available. Book online for the best prices. A combo ticket with the Cliffs of Moher Cruise is often better value than booking separately.
Is Inisheer suitable for children?
Absolutely! Inisheer is ideal for families. There’s a beautiful playground (top 10 in Ireland) right behind the beach, a safe swimming beach and short walks. The 15-minute fast ferry is also manageable for young children.
Can you see the Plassey shipwreck up close?
Yes! The wreck is freely accessible. Walk there (45 min from the pier), rent a bike (10 min) or take a pony and trap tour. You can walk around the wreck and even look inside. There’s a small stand with souvenirs and refreshments by the wreck.
Are films still made on Inisheer?
The shipwreck is world-famous from the opening credits of Father Ted. Although the series wasn’t filmed on Inisheer (but mainly in County Clare), the island is still associated with the series. There’s even an annual Father Ted Festival on Inis Mór.
Can you combine the Cliffs of Moher with Inisheer?
Yes, this is a perfect day trip! Book a combo ticket where you sail past the Cliffs of Moher on your way back from Inisheer. You’ll see the cliffs from the sea – a completely different and spectacular perspective. The Cliffs of Moher Cruise takes about 1 hour extra.
Location on the Map
Gallery
Pictures speak louder than words:
Useful Links
- Doolin Ferry Company – timetable and tickets: doolinferry.com
- Aran Island Ferries – ferry service from Rossaveel: aranislandferries.com
- Inisheer information – general info about the island: aranislands.ie
- Aiteall Accommodation Doolin – charming B&B: aiteallaccommodation.com
- Wild Atlantic Way – route information: wildatlanticway.com